Rijeka

As I mentioned this morning, the day began with a spectacular and prolonged thunder storm that put paid to Liburnicon’s plans for a pirate cruise around the islands. I’m sorry to have missed the trip, and in particular the colony of Griffon Vultures on the island of Cres, but there were plenty of other things to see. I ended up spending a lot of the day in the large city of Rijeka which is just along the coast from Opatija.

Under its Italian name of Fiume, the city was, with Trieste, one of the major ports of the Austro-Hungarian empire. It has an excellent deep-water port which now serves container ships. And, of course, there is a local fan group. We met up with them in a pub. This one.

Prior to WWI, the US maintained a consulate in Rijeka, and one of the diplomats who held the job was one Fiorello La Guardia, better known to the world as a Mayor of New York. Rijeka is very proud of this connection. The pub is in the building where he lived, and is named after him.

Given the connection with New York, the pub serves a lot of cocktails. Currently they are promoting a Tyrolean specialty which is similar to a Mojito but is made with elderflower cordial. Traditionally it is only made around this time of year when the elderflowers are available, which is why it is getting promoted.

The name of this cocktail is Hugo.

So yes, I attended a meeting of a Croatian SF group, a few days before Worldcon, and the outside of the venue was festooned with posters proclaiming, “It’s Hugo Time!”.

Liburnicon Underway

Mirko and I drove to Opatija yesterday, through some really spectacular mountain scenery. The town is perched on the edge of the mountains, dropping precipitously towards the sea. There’s so little room to build, that everything stretches out along the sea front. It was almost dark when I got here, but the town was still hopping late into the evening when I finally got to my hotel.

The convention is held in a local school — the kids being on vacation — and when I got there it looked like many of the attendees had only recently graduated. There were lots of people in pirate costumes, and the place was set up for a party.

Jacqueline Carey got a 2-hour GoH slot to open the main programming, which turned out to be a bit too long but was excellent while we had had things to discuss. She was interviewed by her publisher and editor from Algroithm, the leading SF&F publisher around here. I must say that they have done a superb job with the two Kushiel books that they currently have in translation. Volume 2 arrived last night, hot off the presses.

While Jacqueline signed books, I got interviewed by a local journalist. He was quite young, and wearing a Star Trek red shirt. I don’t think this was an ironic comment on being asked to cover the convention.

After that there was food, beer and music. As I hadn’t yet checked into my hotel I bailed before the band came on because I was a bit worried about them thinking I wasn’t turning up. I hope to catch tonight’s band, but I do have to get back and send out the results of the Translation Awards.

Hello Croatia

So, it looks like I shall be off traveling again in August. I really enjoyed my time in Zagreb last year, and wanted to go back. I’m pleased to report that I will be doing so. I’m going to Liburnicon.

I hasten to add that this is not a result of my supposed vast wealth. I am able to go because I still have a reasonable collection of United frequent flier points, and though the extreme generosity of the Croatian fans who are providing me with transport and places to stay when I am in their country. I am enormously grateful to them.

Liburnicon is held in Opatija, a seaside town just to the east of Istria. It was apparently a favorite holiday destination of the Austrian Emperor, Franz Joseph I. Guy Gavriel Kay has been there as a guest, and warmly recommended the convention to me when I met him in Toronto in June. Oh, and the convention has a pirate theme this year, complete with a “pirate boat party” to one of the offshore islands. How cool is that?

While I am there, I expect to be announcing the winners of the Science Fiction & Fantasy Translation Awards. That, of course, is dependent on the jury, and I apologize if I have just dropped them in it, but I was told that this would be feasible.

I shall, of course, take lots of photos while I am there. I’ll also try to blog as much as I can about the event. I want to do my best to repay the generosity of the Croatian fans. I am so very lucky.

Today on Ujima: Nene Ormes & Jon Courtenay Grimwood

The first half hour of today’s show was given over to an interview with Swedish fantasy writer, Nene Ormes, who is in the UK on vacation. I lured Nene over to Bristol and I’m delighted to say that she does great interviews. We discussed her books, and those of other Swedish writers (including Karin Tidbeck and Stieg Larsson). And we talked a lot about Sweden. There were also name checks for Lavie Tidhar and Charles A. Tan for being awesome.

I haven’t heard the second half hour yet. Nene and I were out in the Ujima offices talking to some kids on the National Citizenship Scheme. But it does feature Emily Williams, of who more later. You can find the whole hour here.

Hour two starts with a brief recorded interview that I did with Jonathan Grimwood (a.k.a. Jon Courtenay Grimwood) about his new book, The Last Banquet. The studio team then had a little chat about eating weird things. After 15 minutes we switch to me interviewing Emily Williams who is an amazing person. Her son, Eddie, was diagnosed with potentially life-threatening problems with his internal organs at age 6, and was given months to live. Thanks to Emily’s care, he’s just celebrated his 21st birthday and is living a very full life. Emily is the most positive person I’ve ever talked to. Take a listen and see.

I missed the last half hour as I had to get Nene and her husband back to Temple Meads. I, and you, can listen to the whole second hour here.

Toronto Wrap

Royal Ontario Museum
Image from Wikimedia Commons, see here for usage rights

While I am absolutely delighted to have been able to get into Canada, and plan to go back again soon, I have also been forcibly reminded that I do not cope well with eastbound jet lag. Next time I go, I need to allow a day or two to just rest after I get back. Hopefully that way I won’t lose so much time to exhaustion. Anyway, I am now in catch-up mode, and the first job is to tell you a little more about Toronto.

First up I should mention that I visited Chapters, which claims to be the biggest bookstore in the world. It is a long time since I was in Powells so I can’t really comment on how that claim stacks up, but I do know that the place is huge, and the SF&F section excellent. I’d love to see bookstores like that in the UK, but I guess that space is much cheaper in Canada.

Much of Sunday, however, was spent in the Royal Ontario Museum, which I rather like. Partly that’s because it took the challenge of extending a beautiful old building with a modern wing in a way that must give Prince Charles nightmares (see photo above), but it has good content too. I was pleased to see a large gallery devoted to First Nations people (and now know what a parka should be like). And they have a great dinosaur collection. Going around it, I kept experiencing flashbacks to books I read as kid because, poor old Brontosaurus apart, they seemed to have all of the well known creatures represented, including a T.Rex, Allosaurus, Stegosaurus, Triceratops and an impressive array of hadrosaur species. It cost CA$16 to get in, but I spent several hours there and could have stayed much longer.

Live From Toronto

Well, that’s good news. I am able to fly to Canada (and presumably Mexico and the Caribbean too). Huzzah!

Yesterday all went well apart from the fact that I couldn’t get a Mi-Fi signal in Terminal 5 at Heathrow. My phone was fine, but the Mi-Fi stubbornly refused to connect. And of course all of the local wi-fi offerings required you to pay for the service. Bah, humbug!

Anyway, Toronto is warm and sunny (and likely to produce thunder storms late in the day). I have a lovely hotel room that is bigger than my apartment, and because I have Hilton-fu I have free wi-fi and breakfast. Also the shower in the room is awesome. A little luxury is good. So is having a day to acclimatize to the new time zone before having to give a presentation. I’ve spent all afternoon in my client’s office, but I haven’t had to perform in front of an audience. Tomorrow will be more challenging.

This morning I caught up with Guy Kay, whom I really love chatting with. It turns out that we are both big fans of Croatia. Also I now know which coffee bar in Toronto to hang out in if I want to bump into Margaret Atwood. Not that I’d have the courage to introduce myself.

Tomorrow will be spent earning my trip, but on Saturday I should get to see a bit of the city.

Off To Toronto

There probably won’t be any posts here tomorrow as I have a long day of travel ahead of me. If all goes according to plan, I’ll be on a flight to Toronto tomorrow afternoon. If I’ve been put on a no fly list then I’ll get turned back at check-in at Heathrow and have to come all the way home again. There may also be issues getting into Canada, though last I heard they don’t ask any awkward questions about being denied entry to other countries. It will be a useful experiment either way.

Assuming all goes well, I have the whole of Saturday free in Toronto. My current plan is to visit the Judith Merril Collection, but I’m open to suggestions.

Travel Day

I’ll be off to Helsinki airport shortly. If all goes well I’ll be changing planes in Frankfurt, and arriving back at Heathrow in plenty of time to grab some food and get a train home. Tomorrow I get to start catching up on all of the things I haven’t been doing while I have been away.

By the way, it is another beautiful spring day in Helsinki today. We were watching the weather forecast on Finnish TV last night. It looks like Jadis is still well in control of the UK. If I’m going to need a boat to get home I might have to beg somewhere to stay in London overnight. I’ll look into hiring a sled and some reindeer here before I leave.

Site Inspection

Yesterday was mainly a travel day. We got up, had a wrap session for the convention, then got on the boat back to Turku. From there we drove back to Helsinki, and then went to sleep. Well, some of us might have slept most of the way in the car, but then I wasn’t driving.

Today, however, Otto and I were up early, because Jukka and Eemeli had arranged for me to get a tour of the proposed Helsinki in 2015 Worldcon facilities. I must say that is a very splendid convention center that they have here. It would be a real shame not to put a Worldcon in it. I have shot lots of video, and a bunch of still photos as well. Now I need to edit it all. Watch this space.

Calling Toronto

Hello Canada. I’ve been asked to fly to Toronto to give a training course on Friday May 31st. Sadly Kevin isn’t free the following weekend, but I haven’t booked my flights yet and I was wondering if anything bookish was happening in the city on the weekend June 1/2 that would make it worth my sticking around.

Note that this trip isn’t certain. There’s a possibility that the DHS has put me on the no-fly list. My client knows this and is happy to take the risk. If I do get let into Canada then I’m hoping to come back for SMOFcon in December.

Today On Ujima: Emma Newman, Roz Clarke, Becca Lloyd

Paulette let me have a huge chunk of today’s Women’s Outlook show. Hopefully I did OK with it. I know I had some wonderful guests.

In the first half hour I talk to Emma Newman about her Split Worlds novels. Between Two Thorns is already in the shops, while By Any Other Name is available on NetGalley for those of us lucky enough to count Angry Robots as friends. If you are thinking of buying the books, please do take a listen. Emma does a fine job of introducing us to the complexities of the novels, and the only spoiler is something that happens in chapter 2. I’ll do a review of the books once I’ve finished the second one. I’m really impressed with the depth of thought that has gone into creating the Split Worlds universe.

Along the way we also get to talk more generally about fairies, and I name drop Neil Gaiman because he reminded me this week of one of my favorite pieces of art. Thanks to the BBC’s You Paintings site, I have appended a copy of Richard Dadd’s “The Fairy Feller’s Master Stroke” at the bottom of this post.

After half an hour I swap guests and talk to Becca Lloyd and Roz Clarke about traveling to interesting countries. Becca was lucky enough to attend to Jaipur Literary Festival in India, while Roz is just back from a month’s writing retreat in Nigeria. Along the way we talk about how Western travelers tend to be shielded from the countries they are supposed to be visiting, about food and fashion, and a bit about the books that Becca and Roz are working on.

All of that can be found here on the listen again feature.

The second hour opens up with the feature we we still call “A lighter look at life”, despite the fact that it always turns political on us. This week Emma and I have a good rant about how we hate the British class system.

The I get to feature Emma as our “Woman of the Week”. We talk about her publishing career to date, and all of the interesting things that she did along the way. There are shout outs for Paul Cornell, Adam Christopher and Lee Harris.

Our studio guest for the last half hour couldn’t make it, so Paulette took charge and walked us through a discussion of various topical issues. I may have been less than enchanted with a certain recently deceased statesperson.

That lot is all available to listen to here.

All downloads and linkage is gratefully received. I still can’t quite believe that I get total to all these lovely writers on live radio, but we need need the listening figures to back it up or eventually they’ll stop asking me.

The Fairy Feller's Master Stroke

Rail Saga Update

I had to use the trains today as I was co-hosting Women’s Outlook on Ujima. All went well. So no trouble with officious conductors. Also a great interview with Tim Maughan and an opportunity to plug Ian McDonald’s PlanesRunner. I’ll let you know when the podcasts are available for download.

Meanwhile I have spoken to Christian Wolmar, the best known rail journalist in the UK (and potentially the next Labour candidate for Mayor of London), and am waiting on a response from Barry Doe, a rail journalist who specializes in fare regulations.

The Citizen’s Advice Bureau website says that if you have been sold a ticket in good faith you can’t be liable for penalty fares.

American Express have been wonderful, as they always are. There’s a reason I pay to have their cards.

And finally I got to mention the FGW incident on the Ujima show. Paulette, like everyone else I have told the story to, was outraged. We are going to do a feature on railway horror stories. If there’s anyone else with a similar story, please let me know. Bristol area would be preferred, but anywhere in the UK would do.

In Which I Lose Faith In FGW

Over the weekend I traveled to Exeter and back by train. On Sunday night I stopped off in Darkest Somerset to see my mother, resuming my journey today. This is something I have done many times before without trouble. Today, however, when my ticket was inspected on my way to Bristol, the conductor’s face took on the smarmy air of someone who had found an excuse to torment a helpless victim and extort money. According to him, because I had broken my journey overnight, the rest of my ticket was forfeit and I’d have to buy a new one.

Note that I said this is something I have done before, on a variety of journeys. Not once have I been told that breaking my journey overnight is not allowed. No one has ever said they are letting me off this time, but please buy the correct ticket next time. What’s more, I had described my journey plans in detail when I bought the ticket. The guy who sold it to me needed to make sure that I was eligible for an off-peak ticket, and wanted to check that I would not be resuming my travel today before 9:30am. I was impressed with how helpful he had been.

None of this impressed my conductor today. As far as he was concerned, I was traveling illegally on an invalid ticket. Things became much clearer when he was joined by a colleague with a badge saying “Revenue Protection Officer”. Obviously some sort of passenger bullying operation was going on. That extended not just to looking for people traveling without tickets, but to finding any excuse possible to demand more money. (And enjoying throwing their weight around in doing it.)

Not wishing to have to explain myself to the police at Bristol, I paid using my Amex card. I phoned them when I got home, and they said they’d be happy to help me dispute the charge. That, however, doesn’t worry me too much. I’m far more concerned about what this means for traveling on FGW services.

I put up with a lot from FGW. There are the persistent late running trains and cancellations. There’s the massive overcrowding, especially at weekends. There’s the ongoing issue of people blocking seats with their bags, or by sitting in the aisle, which train crews generally won’t do anything about. And of course the annual above-inflation fare rises. I put up with all of this because I believe in trains and like to ride them when I can. Today’s incident has changed all that, at least as far as FGW is concerned.

To start with, it is clear evidence that FGW will not honour a ticket sold to a passenger on the advice of their own staff. That has to be worrying, especially given how complex the fare system has become. So from now on I’ll have no confidence in my ability to buy a ticket for a journey that involves a change of trains, or a break of journey, in case having my ticket stamped by another conductor is again taken as evidence of fraud on my part. Nor will I buy cheap advance tickets as I can’t trust advice given as to which services I can use them on.

Furthermore, my local station is often unstaffed, and there are no ticket machines. In the past I have bought a ticket on the train, or on arrival. Now I have no confidence that some zealous conductor won’t accuse me of failing to buy a ticket before boarding and charge me a penalty fare, so I won’t travel unless I can buy a ticket first.

Finally I won’t encourage other people to travel on FGW trains. A lot of my author friends are coming over here for the World Fantasy Convention in Brighton. I’d been suggesting that some of them might do some touristing around here. But foreign visitors who don’t know the system are easy prey for train conductors looking to extort money, so I’m not going to recommend that anyone travel on FGW lines.

Of course I’m a bit stuck for alternatives, so I may have to use the trains a bit in the near future. Fortunately I can get to London on South West Trains services (cheaper too, but much less frequent). But I am now looking to buy a car, which makes me very sad.

Well done, FGW. Your “revenue protection” scheme has netted you £18.10 in extra fares. It has also cost you a loyal customer, and thousands of pounds in future revenues. Was that what you had in mind when you came up with the idea?

Lost in Trans-lation

Michael Palin’s latest travel series for the BBC sees him visit Brazil. It is a timely series, given that the country will be hosting the next soccer World Cup and the next Olympics. Also Brazil is a fascinating country (and one to which I have family links and would love to visit one day). But what sparked this post is that the series is also proving QUILTBAG-friendly. In episode two Palin was asked, live on Brazilian radio, whether he supported marriage equality. He came out firmly in favor of people who love each other being allowed to get married. And last night he was shown attending Rio Pride. Not just attending it, either — he was a guest on board the official bus of the Rio trans community.

Whenever anything to do with sex comes up (as it seems to do quite often in Brazil), Palin tends to retreat into that sort of British attitude that such things are all too embarrassing to talk about. Nevertheless, he was prepared to hang out with a bunch of trans folks, and even interviewed one of them on air.

The lady in question attempted to explain the difference between “transsexual” and (the non-inclusive version of) “transgender” to him, and here’s where language got in the way. Throughout Latin America the word “travesti” is used in much the same way that English-speakers use “transgender”. It is originally a theatrical term indicating an actor playing a role of a different gender, and Palin accordingly translated it as “transvestite”, which is not really what was meant at all (see my Gender 101 if this is all getting too confusing).

To make matters worse, the Brazilians pronounce “travesti” the same way the the British pronounce “travesty”. Of course the words have the same origin, but through the miracle of language evolution “travesty” has come to mean something wrong and abhorrent. It might be better if “travesti” were pronounced French style which is more traa-ves-ti than tra-vesti, but I doubt that there’s anything that can be done now.

Despite this minor confusion, I was very pleased with how Palin incorporated this segment in his programme. Indeed, he seems to think that this was an indication of how modern Brazilian society was. Thank you Michael, much appreciated. For those of you able to access it, the series is available on the iPlayer.

Hurricane Season

Kevin and I are at Heathrow. He’s due to fly back to San Francisco today, and while the route he’s taking goes far to the north of Hurricane Sandy, the knock-on effects of the extreme weather on the air travel industry are affecting anything going in and out of the USA. Currently we are expecting his flight to be leaving 2 hours late. The equipment is currently over Ireland so that schedule should be more or less OK. Meanwhile the MiFi is proving to be worth its weight in gold yet again. We are sat in a coffee shop, working. And because MiFi is a router, not a dongle. Kevin can get online with his laptop too.

I should be back home tonight. Normal service will be resumed here tomorrow.

Swans and Trains and Otters

Most of today has been spent touring around South Devon.

First we stopped off in Dawlish to take in the true extent of Brunel’s craziness in building a major railway line along the sea shore, and meet the famous flock of Australian black swans.

Next we headed on to Totnes to catch the South Devon Railway up the Dart Valley to Buckfastleigh. There were a couple of school parties riding the rails today. The first group we saw were all in costume as witches and wizards (including several of the teachers). A young man in Harry Potter glasses asked Kevin who he was dressed as. “I’m an American Tourist”, he answered. I guess I should have told them that I know a flying monkey (as all of the best Wicked Witches do).

At Buckfastleigh there is an otter and butterfly sanctuary. I was really impressed by the butterflies — their collection stood up well compared to the one I’m familiar with in Kuranda, Queensland. As for the otters, well, we died of cute, as one does. These two are Canadian otters, which are slightly bigger than the British variety, and apparently capable of taking down a seagull should one venture too close.

Otters

In Training

Kevin and I are on vacation in South Devon. The primary purpose is to allow Kevin to ride lots of trains that he has not been on before. There may also be history and good food involved. It is a little damp, and our digestive systems are not in the peak of fitness, but other than that things are going fine.

I have two important things to mention. One is that last night I noticed a problem with my blogs not sending updates to Twitter. Friends in Australia using the same WordPress plugin reported similar problems. I don’t have time to troubleshoot right now so I’ll try to work around it manually. The other is as follows:

Game 7: GO GIANTS!!!

Travel Status Update

As you have probably guessed from the fact that I sold my WFC membership, the trans-Atlantic travel situation is still not good. Kevin and I continue to investigate options, but so far we’ve had no luck, and of course we are hampered by not being able to throw money at the problem.

The DHS has recently launched an appeals scheme for people who think that they have been denied entry unfairly, so we tried that. No luck. The response we got from them was largely boilerplate legalese, and it didn’t look like they had investigated my case any further than establishing that it was not a case of mistaken identity. They did point out that I was eligible to apply for a tourist visa, which I know. However, they also stated that no one would be denied entry under visa waiver unless they were ineligible for the scheme or were one of “those whose travel would pose a law enforcement or security risk”. As the State Department insists that I am eligible for visa waiver, I can only conclude that the DHS has me in the second category. That in turn suggests that any visa application is likely to be denied. And even if it wasn’t, the DHS still reserves the right to refuse entry.

Also, of course, if I am listed as a security risk then there’s a reasonable probability that I’ll be on the No Fly list. They won’t tell you if they are, but I have no intention of spending around $1000 on a flight to Canada only to find out that the DHS won’t allow me to board.

So there we are. The next stage of the process will be to actually apply for a tourist visa. But I’m not going to do that until I have a really good excuse to go.

Eurocon Report

It is catching up with backlog time here, and the first thing I need to do is get the Eurocon report online. You can find it here. There are photos of Zagreb with it. (Including pictures of a railway and a tram for Mr. Standlee, and pictures of everyone’s favorite Elder God.)